Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Reflections at Home (writing 10)

I can’t believe it’s been over a week that I’ve landed in Seattle. Somehow travel always entails countless dramatic events. After all the adventures, I know I have to return to my life at the university and reestablish a sense of a student’s “normalcy.” I miss the Roman sun, the glorious weather in the dead of winter. I miss the relaxed lifestyle, lazy pace from morning croissants to afternoon gelato. I miss the adventures, from Florentine dreamland to Neapolitan realities. Each step was a journey to a closer understanding of Italy, its people, and more personally, the growth I experienced as a person learning about different cultures. The lives people lead through the values they cherish, the conditions they live in, and the professions they hold all contribute to my appreciation of the differences in people and help me build a wider definition of the way life could be lived.

This growth cannot be defined in one instance, or a snapshot of a certain time of realization. Rather, it is a growth that has been developing for some time now. Ever since my first exchange abroad to China, I’ve began this journey of self-questioning and realization. I was so focused on the structure of my life—everything seems to be planned out, knowing exactly what I needed to do to achieve my career goals. Through my last program, I began to question what I really want, who I really am. I was changing then, but I didn’t realize that change happening until I left and was back in Seattle. I know I’m not finished with this development, so by returning I felt as though I put a halt to this self-discovery. I felt compelled to go abroad again, to rediscover that change. This time, I would be ready, ready to realize and reflect on this growth. I can take advantage of this new awareness of self-transformation and fully capture the change the moment it occurs.

Rome was the place I committed to build this independence and self-awareness to nurture my growth. I needed to interact with other people, very much different than I. That translated to exploring neighborhoods outside of Campo de’ Fiori and talking with the residents (Italians and immigrants alike) of those neighborhoods. If you were to ask me for a certain picture from my camera to represent my time in Italy, I wouldn’t be able to provide. My experience is not a concrete picture of a place or person. Rather, it is a more symbolic depiction of the journey, the transformation I cultivated throughout my travels abroad. Italy heightened and even cemented this awareness. So if I had to translate my experience in Italy into an image, I would choose the winding cobbled alleyways of Rome. My interactions with different people started with me walking around by myself. I love my walks. It clears my mind to think about my stay in Rome, but, at the same time, I also stop to observe my surroundings in more detail. I watch the people, admire the architecture, and soak the “Italian” culture through the sounds, sights, and smell. I miss those solitary walks though sometimes “interrupted” by welcomed conversations from passers-by.

I used to believe I needed to “escape” home—Seattle—to continue my growth. However, I’ve come to realize that I need to remember how much I have changed and grown and should continue this process at home. It is hard to do so when everything is so comfortable, so familiar. One would be tempted to adopt one’s old behavior and ways and retreat to the self pre-transformation. This is tempting, but I know I cannot always rely on traveling to “discover” myself. I must take what I learned from my experiences, and through reflection, as I am doing now, establish what I want to change and develop. Rome provided me with that realization. My previous exchange made me hunger for more self-discovery through leaving home, whereas experiences in Rome made me realize that I’ve grown and will continue to do so at home (through increased exploration and reflection of my values and experiences).

My bella Roma, I will always miss you. Thank you for a life-changing experience and all the memories!

Alexis

Thursday, March 11, 2010

End of a Long Journey (writing 9)

Italy. I still recall the days spent at the Yellow Hostel near Termini when I first arrived. I left my comforts and familiarity behind, and now I must begin a new life for then weeks in this unknown world. Despite the proximity of the hostel to the train station, the absence of a map translated to a thirty minute journey of confusion and anxiety (let me just state now that it’s a less than seven minute stroll). Then began my days of: on-site art history lessons, visits to immigrant populated areas, excursions to museums of renowned masterpieces, and adventures from Italian cities to seaside towns.

Here I write to you, no longer lost, but one just finding the gateway that leads to the cobblestone road of understanding Italy’s culture, language, and people—overall the definition of what is Italian. Ten weeks have passed. I finally relax on the living sofa and scan around the room. Every surface has been swept, “swiffered”, wiped, and scrubbed. Italian Febreze scent anyone? The kitchen is no longer filled with possessively labeled food items and the bedrooms are rid of scatter articles of clothing. My suitcases are packed. Today is Thursday, the last day before my early flight out of Rome tomorrow. It is really over.

I am not ready to go back. Why is it always at the end that I began to understand a new environment, culture, people, and language? This happened during my last exchange as well. Physically, this experience of living in Italy is over. Mentally, how this experience has changed me has only just begun. Now begins my process of reflecting all my travels and encounters. I do not believe the Italian culture or people, even its language, can be lumped under one definition. Different regions of Italy have their distinct identities, so I will attempt to provide my perception of being Italian in each of the different places I traveled to.

My Roma. She was my home. Every time I left her, by the end of my trips, I missed her even more and welcomed my arrival at smoke-filled Termini. She was once a maze filled with strangers, but now I am proud to announce my mastery of her streets and alleyways and discovery of hidden gelaterie and pasticcerie. The city layout has became so familiar after countless spontaneous walks, at times solitary, through Trastevere, Testaccio, Ponte, the Vatican City, Trevi, Esquilino, and of course within the labyrinth surrounding Campo de’ Fiori. My Italian has certainly improved after weeks of Fede-style Italian and painfully embarrassing conversations with local vendors. Italians naturally accept you more if you speak the language (although not always the case with Esquilino immigrants). Sometimes I pretend to understand what sweet old ladies say to me in Italian. Smiling always works, which leads to even more Italian words I don’t understand. Sometimes I would have to disappoint them if they stop and wait for me to respond to some witty comment they made. Io non capisco. I suppose this is one way I’ve became more “Italian.” I will ask Mari and Alessia, bella amice, next time to gauge how “Italian” I’ve become.

I still can’t explain the Romans. Some are friendly, some indifferent, but the worst are the rude ones (even in service sectors!). Many a times I have discussed the attitudes of Romans towards foreigners with other Italians, specifically non-Romans. Both Alessia and Mari, parents from southern Italy but grew up in Rome, agree that people from the south are more friendly and accepting of foreigners. Through my travels from Florence and Venice to Naples and Amalfi, I tend to agree.

In Florence and Venice, every street, bridge, house, shop, and just place was pure art. People come here to dream. It is here my pictures found unearthly beauty—each photo dipped in rich chocolate and hung to dry on an olive tree bough. The people there seemed detached, unaffected by the beauty surrounding them. I suppose these cities’ magic is lost on their residents lucky enough to spend years if not lifetimes in such beauty. People here are wealthy. It is northern Italy after all. The fortunate financial conditions and frequent contact with foreign tourists seem to breed an apathetic attitude to outsiders. Some may even call this rudeness—when foreigners are not treated with open friendliness or warm hospitality.

A vastly different experience awaited me at Naples and Amalfi. Southern Italy was naturally poorer than the north. The cityscape of Naples filled with mounds of garbage, vandalized shops, graffiti walls, and animal excrements reflect the harsh realities of an economically unfortunate metropolis. Despite such conditions, Neapolitans never ceased to stop smiling. The word hospitality must have been invented here. Their friendliness was contagious. Where I once walked with nonchalance in Florence and Venice to fit in with the locals, I walked with a faint smile as I greeted southern Italians. This was especially the case in Amalfi. People in amalfi epitomized friendliness, as I remember my hitch-hiking experience. He drove from one place to another to find the best way for us to enjoy the beach and head home at night. Once when we stopped, three to four people rushed to help us find a bus and plan the best route for our day. Where do these people come from? The efforts they put in for strangers amaze and warm my heart (cheesy, but the truth).

All these travels eventually lead back to Rome. The Roman sights, sounds, and scents I will never forget. I threw coins at the Trevi fountain a few times. One time, I only threw in one coin. So according to the myth, I shall return to Rome someday. I did also throw in two coins another time. So maybe new romance? Either way, I can clichéd but honestly say this experience was life-changing—all the food, places, and people I will miss dearly but always cherish.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Napoli (Writing 7 & 8)

I am overwhelmed. I don’t know how to even begin describing to you about Naples. That place possesses an all-consuming, unapologetic realness. Every time I begin to write, words fail to capture the beauty in all the “ugliness”—a harsh reality of poverty mingled with a vibrant culture—that defines an unforgiving Napoli. This city compels me to be honest and scribble (or type) in a more “real” way—less than articulate words included—rather than the slightly contrived nature of previous city descriptions that paints Italy as a fantasyland. Naples exposes Italy. It has the Mafia, pizza, Europe’s biggest drug market, 448 churches, and countless other fun facts that I cannot list them all here. So here I begin to recount my adventures in Naples (and a bit on the southern part of Italy).

After a three hour train ride, we arrived in Naples under a citrus sun. as we tried to find our way to the bus that would take us to our “Hostel of the Sun,” the roads were filled with a massive gathering of people. Within a few minutes, we found out that there was a strike so no buses could operate around this area. People marched through the main streets shouting, smiling, and waving as if this was an everyday occurrence.

The shock of the blunt reality to live in Naples continued although a tad subdued even as I trudged along the roads to find our hostel. Finally my oasis appeared! It was on floor seven I was the only one with luggage. There was no hesitation about taking the elevator after an exhaustive walk through the chaotic Neapolitan streets. I pressed button seven and it didn’t move. The elevator is broken. A five cent coin dropped into a black box. What kind of elevator makes you pay? Neapolitan apparently. Already I sensed the economical practicality of Naples.

The hostel is perfect. After checking in, we ran out the door for an authentic taste of the famous Neapolitan pizza at Di Matteo before the huge 1pm crowd. Along the way, I peered into windows of antique, book, and pastry shops. The city was alive—grandmas chatting on balconies overlooking streets, boys playing soccer in front of churches, billowing sheets hanged to dry on porch railings, and men hollering to each other while making pizza. At Di Matteo, I went downstairs to witness the process of pizza making. We were ready to document this art of creating the best Neapolitan pizza. One pizza maker suddenly stopped putting pizzas in and out of the fire-brick, grabbed my friend and I, and posed. He was ready for his close up. They all were! After seeing more cameras, they rushed us behind counters, and we posed in the center of all the action (I know you, you who filmed this and caught my surprised expression). Never have I experienced such extreme friendliness that I almost felt an invasion of personal space that is so heavily guarded. They were so free, open to accepting and befriending strangers through words, touch, and genuine interest and offer to help you understand their beloved Napoli.

Ravished, I devoured that pizza, gloriously satisfying. Afterwards, the walk to the Archeological Museum helped to awaken my entre body from a food coma. It was comfortably warm outside—a perfect, lazy afternoon for a coffee on the rooftop of a charming café to soak up the sun with friends. Well, marveling ancient masterpieces of the Roman Empire is a great choice too.

A lot was accomplished in this museum: the famous Hercules sculpture we admired (pausing a bit more time from behind), the marble heads we “kissed,” the grand room where I learned to waltz, and the beautiful female scribe I finally found and stored to my camera.

When we exited the quiet confines of the museum, we again entered into the madness of Naples.

The sun was setting. I could feel it as the chilly air seeped into my light jeans jacket, the feeling before the entire night was submerged in cold and darkness. During these late afternoon hours, I joined Lisa, Julie, and Carisa on an exploration of the city’s old, antique filled streets. We went inside a few churches. One that was particularly memorable contained an ancient baptistery (with some of the most amazing gilded mosaic artworks) and housed the remains of San Gennaro, Naples’ patron saint.

The sun had set and the city’s lights flooded Napoli’s skyline, guiding us weary travelers back to our hostel. My hope for a relaxing break before dinner turned into an hour long fiasco of proper visa inspection by eight policemen. I’ve never experienced such a prolonged and extensive police bust of legal visitors! Nevermind, they were nice and I didn’t mind not venturing out into the rather dangerous “night-streets” of Naples.

The next day, we met up with a local Neapolitan, Alexander Valentino (an architect and a crusader for the plight of the poor and discriminated such as the Roma). He led us to the periphery of the city, where poverty abounds at every turn. Secondigliano. They were poor in their wallets, but rich in humanity. A random stranger joined our group and gave us a guided tour of one of the wretched public housing apartments. The miserable conditions of the place had children fallen to their deaths due to a lack of glass on windows. The friendly stranger decried of the lack of government assistance to help this community. People are finally moving out (to other more habitable housing) after surviving thirty years in such “shit.” That place, I will never forget. I reminded me of a place so familiar. Only as I was leaving I begin to realize to similarities and differences of Secondigliano to where I lived and travelled in China.

After the experiences in Naples and the cookie stealing, seaside bus ride, hitch-hiking, and taxi love lesson adventures from Pompeii to Amalfi, I finally returned to Rome. After a journey through Naples, one begins to understand and for some (like me) love the contrast of the grim conditions of economic realities and the warm hospitality of its people.

Before going to Naples, Italians and non-Italians warned me for hours and hours of the dangers of this city. For a person like me who doesn’t even need a thief to lose things, I was more than a little apprehensive about going (even seriously considering buying a new inner pocket filled jacket and purses worn inside clothes). I came with a mindset of never speaking to strangers, but the more time I spent around them, the more I am comforted by their inviting and genuine nature. I talked to Alex about this. He said that to him, people from the south tend to be more friendly and accepting of other ethnicities (Roma and blacks for example). From what I saw, I tend to agree. Coming back to Rome, I felt the shit to a more impersonal treatment of each other. At times the people in the service sector like the waiters or salespeople are indifferent to you. Alex described this occurrence, “They don’t care. It’s Rome. They will always have new tourists coming in. They don’t need you to like them. They can just get new customers because there are so many people that come to Roma and the more north in Italy you go, the more it is like this.”

This depresses me as I am now more aware of the difference in treatment of one another, especially to non-Romans/Italians, after experiencing Naples and hearing about it from Alex.

Besides reflecting on the differences in attitudes towards foreigners from the north and south of Italy, I asked more of what else about Naples I loved. Oh I remember briefly mentioning the connection I felt with Naples to China. I shall discuss about more in detail about this connection. It was a combination of the environment and people: the destitute conditions that the people had to live in with no running water, glassless windows, and garage everywhere; yet, they were happy. A teenage boy we met on the street wanted to take pictures with everyone (he particularly liked posing with a thumbs-up sign) and of course the sweet old man who took us around the run-down apartment building. That need to connect with others and hospitality in treatment, whether foreign or native, was also prevalent while I traveled throughout China. The miserable living conditions heightened the beauty of its inhabitants even more. I will come back again. Naples is real. No better words can be said about this place.

“Realness” is what I search for in places, people, and myself.

Ciao amici and I hope you find it within you!

Alexis

Rione: Testaccio

Intro/Reflection:
Testaccio: the two-faced neighborhood.

In the day time, Testaccio has a working class, proletarian feel. Instead of cobblestone, we walk on pavement. Clothes are left to dry on balconies and even in front yards everywhere. Testaccio feels real. Livable. Unlike most neighborhoods in Rome, Testaccio is not a disneyland. There are no attempts made to hide the mundane and sometimes harsh aspects of real life.

In the night time, Testaccio is a completely different place. The middle aged workers that crowded the streets in the daytime are replaced by young, hip party-goers. Instead of people dressed in conservative, modest work clothes, these teens are dressed in very chic, expensive, modern attire. The more chic, the more likely you are to get into the clubs –some of which are impossible to get into without paying a fortune regardless of how you look. The night is a stage for a competition to be the best looking, most desirable, and the wealthiest. This Testaccio takes on a very exclusive, modern, creative, youthful feel.



History:
Testaccio was once a river port where olive oil, wine, grain from Roman provinces arrived in huge terra-cotta urns. However, it is most well known for being Rome’s former meat packing district. In 1890, Mattatoio, a slaughterhouse, opened on Monte Testaccio. Animals were not only butchered, but also quartered there. Good meat was sold and the leftover “5th quarter” was given to workers as wages. The “5th quarter” is what they called the unwanted odds and ends. Eventually, these offal, hooves, tails, and snouts would turn up in a distinctive new cuisine born in Testaccio and still alive today in more modest trattorias. Common dishes included sauces made with pajata, baby veal intestines with mothers milk still inside, though today veal is often replaced with lamb for fear of mad cow disease.

When mattatoio closed in 1970s, the Scuola Popolare di Musica moved into abandoned spaces and grottoes of Monte Testaccio. Thus, Testaccio made a move towards becoming a more contemporary neighborhood.

Currently
Today, Testaccio has a flea market look and working class feel in the day time. The residents are the working class –the modest, average Roman. At night, a “new breed of young Roman, obsessed with la bella figura and in search of la dolce vita takes over the streets.” These are the visitors. Young Romans gather from all over Rome to visit Testaccio and enjoy the edgy clubs, galleries, and theaters with alternative music, art, and ideas. Testaccio also houses MACRO future, one of the vey few contemporary museums in Rome.

Coat of arms: Testaccio is the 20th rione of Rome, deriving its name form Monte Testaccio. The rione coat of arms depicts an amphora (type of ceramic vase with two handles and a long neck used mostly to store olive oil).


Route:

1. Park de la resistenza (+ memorial)
-Park of the Resistance of 8 September
-designed by garden architect Raffaele de Vico in 1939
-in the middle, there is fountain with an African Motif that represented the nearby Italian Ministry of African Affairs (today occupied by FAO). FAO stands for “Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations”.
-as you walk out of the park, you can see a memorial dedicated to those who fought to unify Italy.

2. Pyramid + Cat sanctuary + Protestant Cemetery
-Pyramid of Caius Cestius: Built around 12 BC as a mausoleum for a wealthy Roman magistrate. It also serves as a cat sanctuary. (It’s near the Porta San Paolo and the Protestant Cemetery. Porta San Paolo: one of the southern gates in the 3rd century to enter through the walls of Rome. The Ostiense Museum is housed within the gatehouse.)
-Protestant Cemetery. In the 1700s, the Pope allocated this stretch of unused land for burial of non-Catholics. Before the Catholic Church prohibited the burial of non-Catholics in Catholic cemeteries in Rome—non-Catholics visitors that were mostly British. Often referred to as the “Englishmen’s Cemetery.” It is the final resting place of non-Catholics (not only Protestants or English people). One of the most famous graves is that of the English poet John Keats (died of tuberculosis in Rome). It also serves as a cat sanctuary. It is best to go there in the morning due to the confusing afternoon closing hours that changes seasonally.


3. Memorial
(for soldiers of all nations who died in battles of the Italian Campaign)
-First special service force association June 1984.
-Started with United States-Canadian Force.

4. Testaccio Market
-Located in the Piazza Testaccio, it is unlike many Roman markets since the stalls are housed in a more permanent structure. Market is filled with fruit, vegetables, meats, fish, dairy, and even shoes. It has a more distinctly working class Italians as buyers. Open from 6:30 to 1:30 everyday except Sunday.

Why the market smells like stinky fish!

5. MACRO Future
-an annex to citys Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma took over 2 newly restored pavilions in slaughterhouse
-notice that the outside of the building is not contemporary at all. Contradiction!

6. Monte Testaccio
-In ancient times, much of the Tiber River trade took place here, and the remains of broken clay vessels (amphorae) were stacked creating this artificial Testaccio hill (called Monte Testaccio), which today is a source of much archeological evidence as the history of ancient everyday Roman life. The countless numbers of broken amphorae shows the enormous amount of food required to sustain ancient Rome—hill estimated to contain the remains of 1.6 billion US gallons of imported oil (amphora=18 gallons)

7. Clubs

-hottest clubs took over caves long ago dug into the side of Monte Testaccio.
-Writers, artists, young professionals embraced this area, even moving into the housing projects that once accommodated workers
-Specific clubs include Alibi (gay club with a great dance floor upstairs and a diverse crowd), Akab (underground cave, hip hop music), Charro Cafe (one of our favorites, different DJ inside and outside, free entry, very diverse music including everything from 70s to modern day music from all over the world).

Now all you have to do is go visit yourself!

Buon viaggio!

Alexis

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Testaccio (Writing Assignment 6)

I woke at exactly 7:30am to only a little over five hours of sleep. My mind knew. This misty Tuesday morning nudged a reluctant me out the door and into the chaos of Roman alleys. I was ready: gloves, boots, Google walking directions, umbrella, and my black notebook. I trekked across the river, pausing every few minutes to discreetly check my crumpled directions. I refuse to remain as a lost tourist. After navigating through the Trastevere labyrinth for twenty minutes, pleasantly accompanied by near death street crossings, I crossed the Ponte Sublicio bridge to finally enter Testaccio.

Unnerving, who is that man on the motorcycle staring at me? I crossed the intersection. He followed on his bike. My pace quickened as I buried my face in my upside-down Google directions. I shall not bore you further with frivolous details, but rest assured that I bolted down Via Antonio Cecchi. Where is this Piazza Testaccio marketplace? I must have passed it in my escape mode trance. There was a small opening against a wall that seemed to blend into the graffiti structures of this neighborhood. I peeked inside. Shoes, stall after stall, greeted my first steps into this rather Italian market. I wandered behind the shoe shops to a spacious open market. Butchers framed the area while produce vendors dotted the space within. I recalled Mercato Esquilino. So different. The vendors, unlike in Esquilino, were Italians not immigrants from all over the world. I strangely miss the loud and vibrant immigrant culture that saturated my senses. Here in Mercato di Testaccio, people were detached from each other. Some vendors sat behind stalls, hidden from customers. Maybe it was the gloomy weather, an early morning, or a lack of customers that formed a more exclusive culture of interaction compared to Esquilino. Esquilino was more diverse. Everyone was a stranger in this foreign country so they interacted and tried to make friends with other “strangers,” fostering a more inclusive, outspoken culture. I tried to buy some vegetables to talk with at least one person here. Two red bell peppers. I was overcharged since he didn’t have any change. After a full fifteen minutes through the market, I pulled my purple umbrella over my head again and decided to explore the rest of Rione XX.

My aimless walk led me to the heart of Testaccio, defined by the Parco della Resistenza dell’Otto Settembre. Everyone walked their dogs here, petite girls with Huskies and burly men with Pomeranians. My stroll led to walls of graffiti and a conspicuous pyramid at a busy intersection. The pyramid is situated directly behind a post office, modern in its minimalist contemporary construction. This dirty white box served as a stark contrast to the ancient-looking pyramid. I stole glances inside the gated entry of the Piramide di Caio Cestia. Scattered stones and overgrown grass. A sign informed me of the purpose of this bizarre structure in such a location: a cat shelter open from 2pm to 4pm. A wall enclosed the entire compound. The sign built into the wall revealed that it served as a memorial to the American-Canadian First Special Services Force that liberated Rome on June 4th, 1944.

Following a brief history lesson (many thanks to the memorial), I treaded deeper into Testaccio. Everyone was so Italian. I sensed a more real Italy here. This is where Romans lived, not in some idealized eternal city of ancient ruins and charming apartments. Buildings did not attempt to conceal their unkempt, industrial state. The gilded mask of Rome was partially lifted here.

Three hours had passed before I trudged back through Via Mamorata to Trastevere and eventually my Campo. Oh I must tell you of a quaint bakery I discovered! When the wind and rain relentlessly punished my feeble umbrella, I ducked under a covered window to save it from its tragic, upturned state. I turned and realized I was facing a sweets galore. I peered into the window, almost savoring the rich aroma of each pastry. My admiring eyes caught a glimpse of a kind baker man against the window’s corner, smiling probably at my drooling situation. I will return and find out the name of that place for you, or me!

Ciao once again until more updates on food!

Alexis

Independent Research Outline

For my part of the project, I will be discussing the stories of the immigrants I met at Esquilino. It will serve as the tread of the paper. When I bring up different issues that they encounter, my other group members will discuss them in more detail. For example, if I talk about the issues they face for employment, then the person focusing on employment will delve deeper into that area with research on immigrants’ employment issues. My story will serve as the lead that each of the three topics will begin their discussion. When one issue is covered, I will move on to the next part of the story that covers the following topic until all aspects we have chosen are covered.


Here I described so far what my second encounter with these immigrants entailed:

I’m a stranger. We are both strangers. This is what Rahmen told me when I talked to him the second time after our brief initial encounter (described in my Esquilino post). He described the familiarity he felt towards me and the need for “strangers” to connect. He wanted me to feel welcomed in this foreign land, since he was fully aware of the lost and confused feeling when he first arrived in Italy 20 years ago (in 1989). He was from Bangladesh and before he came to Italy, he worked as a sailor on a boat for 5 years. He has been to places all over Europe (Spain, Italy, Greece, etc.), Asia (China’s Canton, Shanghai, Hangzhou; Singapore; etc.), Brazil, and the U.S. Through his travels, he met a lot of people and made friends from all over the world. His experiences taught him the importance of building friendships with “strangers,” plus he enjoyed meeting and befriending new people (which provided him with a more worldly view). He introduced me two his friends around his shoe store (he worked for its Italian owner who had a Nigerian wife, Tomi): Raju (from Bangladesh, who sells clothes and shoes and been here for two years) and Sohel (also from Bangladesh and sells shoes and clothes).

One of the most interesting conversations I had was with Tomi. She is Nigerian, but she has lived in Italy for almost 30 years and is married to an Italian (the owner of shoe shop Rahmen works at). Both of them live around Piazza Vittorio. She met her husband as a student in Italy during her vacation (learning English and Italian in Nigeria before coming to Italy). Currently, she works at the Nigerian Embassy (concerning immigration) and is studying French so she can work in the French Embassy. We talked for a while and when I told her I will be traveling to Naples soon, she warned me for at least 20 minutes of the dangers of that area and how to protect myself (her stories were shocking but interesting). I felt genuinely cared for and protected from her, from Rahmen. Tomi was like a mother figure in the way she gave me advice (what to do to protect myself, who can be trusted, and if I need anything just call her). I told her of my depressing Italian ability. She nodded and smiled. Tomi: I know. I was once you, in your situation. Don’t worry, we are your friends. I will help you. If you ever need anything, just let me know. I will be here. They “were” strangers, but I feel familiar, comforted, and at home with them.

I adored her and her family and the way that she interacted with her mother-in-law(describing the funny situation of her mother-in-law speaking Roman Italian with another vendor speaking Neapolitan Italian) and husband. They were all so affectionate towards on another (Tomi, her husband, her mother-in-law, Rahmen, and vendors). I talked with them until the shop closed. Even when everyone had to leave, they stayed to joke, laugh, and hug before they finally parted ways (at least 15 minutes after closing).

Then Rahmen and I went to a café near the market (run by Chinese) where I had a cappuccino and a slice of cake (his treat). While there, I met another one of his friends who is Moroccan and talked briefly to him. Both kept on commenting on how I look do not like a Chinese person, more of a mix (maybe part European)—they’ve seen many Chinese immigrants around their area and don’t think I resemble them. After our conversation, he took me to the bus and said goodbye. He offered Indian food for my next visit! I will visit them again soon and I can’t wait to learn more about them!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Two Stories

“Back Alleys”

Where do babies come from? Shockingly what I used to believe as a gullible five year old resurfaced in “Back Alleys.” This story begins with a man thinking he would find a baby in the dumpster, which sounds strangely familiar. I start to recall what my parents told the five-year-old me of my arrival twenty years ago. Apparently, I was discovered at a dumpster near my home by my dad. The story continues even more outlandishly.

Ok enough about my parents’ bizarre stories of human reproduction. I shall get back to analyzing “Back Alleys.” The confusing storyline jumps from discovering babies in dumpsters to the speaker’s experience as a foreigner being checked by police for legal residency. The incoherent story progresses from the protagonist’s near fatal attack by a flying rat to a bladder emergency to the death of his annoying neighbor. He continues to write in a stream of consciousness style when imagining his neighbor’s death. The story ends with him contemplating moving his friend Piero into the dead lady’s place.

This work of writing seems to be a mesh of thoughts that the writer pieced together as his mind wonders. It is him scribbling down a day’s random musings. What does it all mean? The dumpster baby, immigration issues, Moroccan boys, flying rats, and a dead neighbor? How or do they tie together to form a theme or message for this story?

“The B-Line”

I have lost count on the number of times I have read and reread this barely two-page story. The first time I read it, I was confused at where this place was. It could be on a bus, train, ship, or any kind of transportation. The stops gave me clues, specifically “San Paolo Basilica” and “Termini.” The speaker must be in Rome. Then my question shifted to the title, “The B-Line.” Could it be a mistake and actually mean “Bee Line?” Raised in the internet generation, I naturally googled B-Line. Google has yet to fail me. Once again, success as Wikipedia reveals that the Line B was the “first line of the Rome Metro to be built." The stops that this line contains are each referenced in the speaker’s writing. She first gets on at Eur Palasport and eventually ends at Termini.

After I figured out the bolded words of metro stops, my focus turned to the speaker’s reactions following the announcement of each station’s arrival. The reader knows what she is thinking, but she does not actually speak (to say that she speaks while on the metro). However, one can sense that she is searching for words, but cannot find any word to truly express the depth of her thoughts and emotions. She needs time to continue her search for those “perfect” words. Until then, I almost sense that she will remain silent. The silence refers not to speaking everyday language. Rather, it is an expression of her soul as she describes, “It takes a long time to penetrate the fabric of the soul” with the correct words. She has yet to find the right words, so she leaves (Termini—the end of all stops) “wordlessly.”

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Home Revised (Writing Assignment 5)

My dazed eyes turned to the train window, seeing but not aware of the fleeting images of a less than picturesque Italian countryside. I pressed my hands against the glass and stared at my faint reflection, thinking. Will I miss Rome? I adore this city—the art, architecture, food, fashion, people, the list never ends. Will I love Florence more? Skepticism mingled with controlled excitement, I daydreamed about this new city warmed by a late morning sun. The day held the pale blue promise of a golden day. I drifted awake after the churning wheels slowed along the tracks. I dream of Firenze, a city quietly waiting for you and for you to love.

The walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station to Hotel Giada entailed a rather rhythmical clanking of luggage wheels on cobblestone footpaths. Make way! The racket shamelessly announced our arrival. Such conspicuous tourist we sounded and looked. Pulling my baggage along stalls after stalls of identical leather pieces amid shouts of vendors in English, I admit I was less than fond of this city. How can it rival my Roma?

Then came the rush of storing luggage, rummaging for passports, and bolting out the door. Now began Florence’s slow seduction. The morning sun sprayed a classy cityscape in a honey tint. Within the first ten minutes, the magnificent Duomo, sinful sweets, and charming shops delighted my eyes. The fragrances of warm vanilla and faded leather lingered in the Florentine air. I must be in a dream, in one of Monet’s paintings. This place, a delicate beauty kissed by touches of quintessential romance, bewitched even the most jaded of travelers. Hours passed before I noticed the soreness of my cheeks from involuntary grinning. I can’t help it. Just like the locals, I love this city with a justifiable intensity although I show my emotions through nonstop smiling. The seduction continued as I spent the next three days strolling through Florence collecting favorite moments and tucking them into my handmade leather bag. The frescos, paintings, sculptures, and architecture of Michelangelo, Donatello, Botticelli, Giotto, Ghiberti, and Brunelleschi were everywhere. Wandering into room after room in museums, opening doorway after doorway of palaces, and passing tomb after tomb in chapels, I thought to myself, so this is where they keep all the famous art.

I did not miss Rome. Rather, within a couple of hours, I decided that one day I will live here. I steal glimpses of a life, maybe imagining mine. I am a journalist, living in a white apartment with a stone balcony that brims with pots of pale yellow lilies and overlooks the river. In the mornings, I munch on waffles wider than my mouth and sip a foamy cappuccino from the café below. I converse to locals in a torrent of quick Italian on philosophy, art, and politics from steps that frame the ancient plazas. As darkness cloaks the city, I would venture into my favorite gelateria to order crème caramel and lick every last drop as the street corner artist sang my favorite Pavarotti operas. I may at times feel alone, but I know tomorrow’s sunset will make me fall in love once again.

The sunset was the final seal of my adoration for Florence. On the second day, I braced myself against the piercing wind and climbed a zigzag path that culminated to a breathtaking view of Florence atop Piazzale Michelangelo. So this is where snapshots of Firenze postcards are taken. After a few minutes, a crimson ink stained the sky, wrapping the Florentine horizon in surreal hues. In an instant, rows of lamplight flooded the riverside with a candlelight glow. I couldn’t stop taking pictures as my camera cried in exhaustion, no more batteries. Still I stayed long past numb fingers, breath clouds, and frozen cheeks. I did not want to leave.

The next day, I had to leave Florence. The thirty minute train ride to Prato depressed me. The gray rain clouds cast a bleak aura around this industrial town. Where are the artworks, colors, and delicious aromas? I was surrounded by a stark cityscape of concrete buildings covered in dirty plastic. Despite the dreary view, I found a pair of gorgeous boots. I decided to go back to the shop after visiting Prato’s Duomo, but yet again, my sense of direction failed me. Naturally, this translated to circling streets and landmarks. I tried speaking to a few Italians but either they didn’t understand me or I didn’t understand them. An Asian guy passed. I recalled hearing that Prato had some of the most Chinese immigrants. I approached him. Me: Do you speak Chinese? Him: Yes. Do you speak Italian? Me: No. He was on his way to the post office near the train station. He offered to take me there. I followed him, knowing that my shoe shop was only a few minutes from the station. We spoke briefly, mostly me asking him some basic questions about his profession and life. Then we parted ways. Here I was in Italy, lost but eventually found my way through communicating in another language that was neither Italian nor English. A pleasant relief and surprise.

On the Prato trip, I kept on asking, where are the rolling Tuscan hills and villas I see in pictures and movies? There were no lush green hills when you drive through valleys of golden wheat fields. Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed and quickly falling out of love with Tuscany. However, now when I reflect on my two hour Prato adventure, I appreciate how it juxtaposed a dream that is Florence. Prato was real, not a gilded Italian façade for tourists.

A romanticized Italian landscape continued in Cinque Terre, my weekend destination after Florence. The sleepy coves with waves exploding in foams against a cliff of pastel houses lulled travelers into a deep dream, never to awake or leave. Scenic hikes, seafood dishes, and more pictures ended my adventure at next day’s twilight.

A week after, I welcomed the mask of Italy. From Lido to Venice, the rainy romance ensued. The labyrinthine passages reminded me of Campo’s alleys. I’m lost again like in Roma! The city of lights and old world charm, Venice will never cease to enchant all beauty lovers. Yet, after a couple of days I longed for the comfort of Rome.

I was tired. Florence, Cinque Terre, and Venice merely whispered and I fell in love, but I wanted to go “home.” And that was Rome. I didn’t realize my attachment to Rome in just five weeks. I suppose it was the familiarity of my surroundings compared to the rest of Italy. Strange. I only felt the absence of home, Rome, after leaving it. In another way, it also applies to my home in Seattle whenever I travel abroad for extended periods of time. One must leave home to feel the loss of familiarity, a void that grows with each passing day one is away. Home, no matter the allure of the outside world, will always be your refugee, comfort, a piece of your heart left behind. You will come back or long to return and end a vagabond life.



Dove è la tua casa?

Alexis

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Questions for Caritas visit

It seems that Caritas Roma is focused on helping immigrants adjust/adapt to the Italian culture by providing housing, Italian lessons, and other services. It is an idealist goal considering the amount of immigrants in Rome and all the goals this organization wants to achieve. The immigrants all over Rome selling various objects and food are the obvious outsiders, isolated and at times discriminated against. Were they helped by Caritas Roma? Do the gypsies qualify as a people to enjoy the services of Caritas Roma? When do immigrants cease to qualify or are pushed down the list of offered assistance into adjusting to a foreign environment? Do a lot of immigrants know about this program? How do they find out? Is it offered to most or does it have a selective aspect on who it is willing to help? What do the immigrants think of this program? And the Italians? Who funds this organization?

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Esquilino (Border's Writing Assignment 3)

I love the taste of blood oranges. The burst of citrus liquid trickling down my throat reminds me of an edible honey day; that day’s warmth spread over my bare legs peeking under a flowing summer dress. Its succulent flesh squeezed a sourly sweet juice that spilled across my palms, and I shamelessly licked its path down my fingertips. A woman with kind eyes gave me seven. Grazie. Gathering my blood oranges wrapped in brown canvas paper and my bag of red bell peppers, I disappeared into the market crowd. The air was perfumed with the sweetness of fresh ripe fruits strangely mingled with the pungent aroma of raw meat, live fish, and the nutty scent of eastern spices. An intriguingly fragrant invitation made my nose tingle and steps falter as I stumbled through this chaotic open-air market that embraced stall after stall of deliciousness. Benvenuti al Mercato Esquilino.

The market’s vendors had a few Italians but were otherwise mostly immigrants. I succumbed to a dizzy descent of the senses: first my eyes, nose, and now ears—ears that endlessly hummed with unwanted remarks from the vendors. A chorus of “Ciao bella! Come ti chiami? Di dove sei?” was interspersed with random greetings in other languages— English, Japanese, Korean, and Chinese. Uncomfortable, alienated, and trapped by invisible walls of awkward words, my pace quickened as I raced through the market desperate to find a familiar face. Deliberately averting eye contact and pretending not to hear or understand, I scurried past more strangers with strange words. What a laudable decision independent girl, wandering around the market by yourself. I need to stop, breathe, and feel. The golden morning light, hovering above the crowd, settled and glowed on my skin. Bathed in its warmth, I welcomed relaxed senses and an eased mind. I laughed at the silliness of my anxiety. This place is foreign, these people are foreign, and such behavior is foreign. I began question the walls I erect against this foreignness.

The root of my discomfort stems from a fear of the unknown, the unfamiliar. Most of the vendors are foreigners as well, immigrants residing in a foreign land. Where are their walls? They seem at home, whether temporary or permanent. My steps slowed in front of a butcher shop. Three men smiled. I smiled back. Each of the three butchers had a distinct ethnicity: Italian, Egyptian, and Bangladeshi. Our brief, lighthearted conversation revealed that the two foreign men had lived in Italy for two years. I was impressed. They spoke Italian with such fluidity, teasing and laughing together like brothers. Despite different backgrounds, they seemed to have adapted into an immigrant culture, a synthesis of various nationalities. The market possesses a natural system of mutual understanding between all its participants—vendors and consumers. The marketplace has its own identity, distinct from the Italian identity outside its walls. It is a stage of cultural collision. However, instead of a “clash of civilizations,” these identities melt within each other, united in their differences and shared experiences as outsiders. After a few clicks of my camera, I greeted the blinding midday sun.

Saturday, I returned to Esquilino. Great, I’m lost as anxiety knotted my chest once again. I ran around, circling the edges of Piazza Vittorio. You must have thought me mad. Don’t worry. I knew. I saw the strange and worried stares. I ran past shoe, bag, and clothing shops before standing breathless at the entrance of the bustling market. I was a dying man in a desert who just found his oasis. It was exactly 3:24pm. I am embarrassed to admit that I had wandered for well over an hour since leaving Termini. This time, I was determined to converse with the immigrants and ask them about their experiences. Oh great, ciao bellas. Maybe I should search for a person not shouting at me. I need some conditioner. The guy who sells it seemed quiet enough. Unfortunately, he was too quiet. His lack of English skills and my tragically poor Italian meant less than two exchanged phrases in five minutes. After moments of awkward silence as I tried to sign language my questions, I dejectedly gave up and left. He was from Bangladesh, been here for two years, did not know anything about immigration, and didn’t understand me (so he said). Now I’m stuck with a huge bottle of conditioner I will never finish in six weeks. Perfect. Nevermind. Onto my next target. This time, a chatty one. Good news: he spoke English! Bad news (since I am researching on immigration): he’s Italian. Fine. I will try the bag shops since I might even need a new purse. Within the covered rows of shops, a few shoe vendors approached me. I remember one of them calling after me in some Italian earlier, but I was too distraught and lost to care. Now they tried again in English, “Where are you from?” Why do I always get that question? They spoke English well. It seemed that they were confused about my ethnic background. Strange. Here I was pondering the same questions about ethnicity of the vendors and they are just as curious about my origins. I suppose now is the time to reveal that I’m Chinese and grew up in the States (if you didn’t know already). They were shocked. To them I did not look like the Chinese around their area (a lot of Chinese people lived and worked around this market). Their guesses ranged from Japanese, Korean, Indian, and even part Italian! After some funny inquires about my background and theirs, they welcomed me to come again and continue our conversation. I promised to return, excited to converse again with the Bangladeshi man who lived in Rome since I was born and spoke excellent Italian and English. I love people with stories, and I know he will have amazing ones to share.

The sun had set and taken with it its radiant fire. My glowing lamplight coils around my bed as I write to you. I am vaguely recalling home. Maybe the market was their home, where these immigrants found acceptance with each other. I will go back again, but now it is midnight and sleep beckons as I sink deeper between my sheets.


Buona notte amici!

Alexis

Monday, January 25, 2010

On-site Jewish Ghetto Freewrite

“Who is there to help me?” begged the haunting eyes of the Holocaust victims. Their piercing gaze vividly plagued my vision as I recall my day at the Jewish synagogue. Doors of train carts crashing against metal locks punctuated images of innocent souls trapped in a nightmarish ride that some never awoke from. Who heard your cries? Where was your savior then? The horror after the train stopped, unbeknownst to its ill-fated passengers, morbidly unraveled beneath my eyelids. For a moment, I was a silent witness to screams of a forsaken people.

That video shook me in ways I leave you to imagine. Feel the borders, walls, gates, and doors—metaphorical or physical enclosures of alienation, misunderstandings, hate, and ethnocentrism erected by humans. You must be categorized and perfectly placed in a group. We mark you, sewing a yellow star onto your chest. You can’t escape. The macabre crimes against one race are walls of unrelenting hatred. It is a border of persecution against a people termed as the “other,” the “unknown.” Guilty murderers: blind conformers of ignorant mobs. Innocent victims: young Anne Franks with untold diaries. The fences of Auschwitz sealed the Holocaust victims from the world, a fence meant to exclude and erase remnants of the “other” race. A tragic end awaited all inhabitants within those walls. The walls created an inferno on earth, a literal furnace burned bones to ashes. No traces reminded.

Now I traverse through the ancient but modern cobbled alleyways of the Jewish Ghetto with Gabriella leading the way. She recounts the history of her people. I listen. I ask, “Why does the Pope refer to Israel as the Holy Land but doesn’t acknowledge it as a country for the Jews?” She explained: the Popes historically have never acknowledged that Israel belonged to the Jewish people. This barrier of separation, an enduring mentality of us against them, when or will it ever end?

Jews, historically persecuted, now build gates to the synagogue, seemingly to shield themselves and their faith from foreign brutality. It vigilantly guards the path to its inner realm that protects fragmented pieces of memories of a bloody, but rich past—never to forget, and always to cherish. Message to outsiders: stay away. A slip of red paper granted my entrance into this secret world. The gates symbolize a threshold that leads to a refugee, sanctuary, and even heaven for the designated insiders (the Jewish people). These ancient wanderers finally found a home, yet they raise more walls. Despite the paramount differences in the two aforementioned gates (terror within Auschwitz and solace within the synagogue), both are walls of isolation that defines the insider from the outsider. The walls are everywhere, forever circling your past, future, and your ever glorified present. The walls may never fall, or you may say it’s my cynicism.

Questions for Amara Lakhous

I thoroughly enjoyed reading Lakhous’ novel Clash of Civilizations Over an Elevator in Piazza Vittorio. In some way, this book reminded me of another intriguing author and book—Albert Camus’ The Stranger. Cleverly funny, curiously philosophical, and oddly tragic, this unconventional novel seized my attention until its last, one hundred and thirty-first page. Settling down this book after a late morning of a refreshingly thought-provoking read, I reflected on some questions I would like to ask the author during his visit. Here’s the list (excuse my stream of consciousness style questions): How did you get the idea for writing this story and in this style (also with different people’s perspectives on a murder)? Did you identify with any one of your characters or did you use other people you knew to shape your characters? What is your take away message? Or is there a definite, clear message that you want to communicate? Amedeo is from Northern Africa (Algiers I believe—you are from Algiers as well so is there more to Amedeo’s origin?), but he tries to escape from his past. I still feel that fragments of Amedeo’s past do not piece together a complete explanation of his life before Rome. So is it relevant to know his history and identity, true and complete? Who is Amedeo and what does he symbolize (this may lead to the question of can we ever truly know anyone, including even ourselves?)? What is the significance of Amedeo’s “howling?” What does the elevator signify (the microcosm of Rome and/or Italy through all the conflict it involves?) as the residents battle over its deteriorating conditions? It seems that the further south one originates from, the more he is despised and discriminated against (even people within Italy e.g. the Milanese professor’s contempt for Romans). What do you think of your book being made into a movie? Do you have specific preferences on how you want your characters or the setting portrayed? Are you involved in its production?

An exhaustive list of questions that I can’t wait to ask!

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Mari (Border's Writing Assignment 2)

Mari. I met her through a friend of mine. She’s Italian and studying English, Chinese, and French as a fifth year university student. We decided to do a language exchange of Italian, English, and Chinese. Saturday, 3pm, at the Piazza di Spagna, I waited. I knew it was her immediately. Wrapped in a classic black coat beautifully paired with a voluminous white turtleneck sweater, she was chic in her simplicity. She lingered on the Spanish Steps, scanning the plaza below for my arrival. I spotted her from atop and called out her name with excited nervousness. She turned around and both of us greeted each other with flushed smiles.

Then off we go! Rows of shops, lines of cars, and crowds of people passed by, but I was not aware of my surroundings anymore. My eyes, ears were all focused on her. Her voice painted alluring images of Italian culture, food, and life. We shared our study abroad experiences, and in between I learned some Italian! The next time I stopped, I was standing at the center of Piazza Navona. As if awoken from a dream, I gazed across the open piazza framed by quaint, charming cafes. We strolled passed two fountains at the heart of the square and finally relaxed outside in a café’s terrace nestled conspicuously in front of La Fontana del Moro. I mumbled something along the lines of, "Scusi, cioccolata calda per favore." Success! The waiter understood, and I think I may just have impressed my new friend.

Seated comfortably in our idyllic setting with a heavenly hot chocolate in hand, our voices again clicked away as the flowing waters, clattering plates, and rushing steps all faded away against a backdrop of a glowing sunset on this ancient piazza. We resumed our talks about life abroad, Italian and English literature (Did I mention how well-versed she was in Dante, the Bronte sisters, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and other classics? Now on my list of Italian authors to read are—when I do master the language of love—Luigi Pirandello and Italo Svevo.), and naturally arriving at my designated topic of discussion: the immigrant protests in southern Italy. She explained the prevalence of discrimination in Italy, a nation where even people from the north and south are divided. Both harbor antagonistic sentiments toward one another: the northerners referred to as “polentoni” and the southerners as “terroni.” Polentoni derives from polenta that mockingly alludes to cornmeal porridge hungry northerners and torreni translates to backward peasants who are the socially inferior southerners. Neither side relents on degradingly stereotyping the other.

As expected, this prejudiced nature extends to the African immigrants persecuted in southern Italy. The recent riots of these immigrants arose in response to racism and wrongful assaults by local Italians. With both parents from the south (one from Campania and the other from Sicily), Mari explained this complex racially charged situation. She explained the plight of these tireless illegal immigrant laborers, working endless days and nights for pitiful pay. They are the ones toiling away in the fields, picking fruits and vegetables. They perform jobs that most Italians shun, jobs viewed as beneath their dignity.

The recent economic crisis exasperated the tensions between these immigrants and local Italians. With mounting job loss across Italy, especially in the north as large companies lay off workers, more Italians fear their jobs were “stolen” by the illegal immigrants. However, this is not true since most of these illegal immigrants did not hold such jobs. Nevertheless, animosity and hostility further escalated, and the government fed this unfounded fear. One case Mari gave was Lega Nord (North League), a prominent political party in the north, supporting a program termed “White Christmas.” Euphemistic in name, the program permitted government officials to inspect house by house on Christmas day for illegal immigrants, checking each suspicious resident’s immigration documents. Not only did the Italian government not help to alleviate the hardships of these immigrants, it further bred local Italians’ growing prejudice against them. Her grave eyes revealed her disappointment and disapproval of such racial hatred as she repeated, “It is a very bad thing.” A very unfortunate and bad thing indeed.

I sipped the last few drops of my hot chocolate and looked beyond the darkening horizon, distantly recalling the sad realities of racism in America before and after the abolition of slavery. Mari continued. This time she tried to provide an answer to explain the continued racism in Italy. She began with Fascism. Italy’s fascist ideals, led by Benito Mussolini, were mostly racist. However, Mussolini’s dictatorial regime did not last long. Thus, fascism met an abrupt end with the violent death of Mussolini. On the other hand, Spain had a relatively longer time under fascist rule and eventually ended with a natural transition to democracy after Francisco Franco’s death. Mari suggested that this difference is relevant when comparing why Italy may be more discriminatory against outsiders than Spain. Spain endured a longer rule under fascism so its people remember and understand well the meanings and purpose of fascism. On the contrary, Italians may not fully understand the terrible racism and damaging ideals of fascism. Consequently, more young adults today join fascist groups that try to revive Mussolini’s legacy. When describing this occurrence, Mari again shook her head as she chides, “They just don’t remember or know how bad it is, how racist it is.”

The sun had long set after our conversation quieted to an end. The heated lamps, hovering above the tables, casted a warm glow around us but could not stop the freezing wind seeping into my bones. At that moment, I didn't care. I was lost in my thoughts, absorbing all I had just heard. Sitting here, overlooking the piazza, and sipping my (now cold) chocolate, I am struck by my contradictory state. Here I am in a bourgeois setting contemplating on how such a picturesque world can be so tarnished through racial antagonism.

Despite the difficulty in communicating some aspects of the immigration and racial situations, our conversation effortlessly flowed from one topic to another. I looked at her and this time I smiled as both of us, at the same time, tucked our hands in our pockets to shield them from the biting cold. It had been four hours. I did not notice the time, only that I didn’t want it to end. Sitting there with her against the cold, I know I must wait until our next encounter to resume our discussion. After a brief stop at my apartment and some quick Italian lessons in my kitchen (where I attempted to learn some kitchen vocabulary), I hugged her goodbye. And then she was gone. But rest assured, we will meet again. In the meantime, I wish your days are filled with many wonderful encounters!


Arrivederci amici!

Alexis

Monday, January 18, 2010

Il Colosseo: Mixing Business with Pleasure


An entertainment facility rivaling the Pyramids of Giza, the Hagia Sophia basilica, and the Taj Mahal mausoleum as a world renowned national masterpiece, the Colosseum is one of the most memorable icons of ancient Rome. The Roman poet Martial unabashedly praised the Colosseum, placing it at the head of a largely mythical roster of ancient Wonders of the World.

Egypt, forbear thy Pyramids to praise,

A barb’rous Work up to a Wonder raise;

Let Babylon cease th’incessant Toyl to prize,

All Works to Caesar’s Theatre give place,

This Wonder Fame above the rest does grace.

This imposing and conspicuous monument epitomized glory, power, and prosperity for the empire of Rome. It is THE Roman amphitheater where countless suffered and died, leaving only a select few who survived at the mercy of an often ruthless crowd. Death, fear, and despair overwhelmed the “entertainers” of the Colosseum, blatantly juxtaposed against the cheers, anticipation, and excitement of the “entertained.” Situated at the heart of Rome, this triumphal showpiece is both utilitarian in function and symbolic in social and political purposes. The Colosseum embodied in its form and function pleasures of popular entertainment to appease the masses, but also symbolized the emperor’s political desire to interact with the Roman citizenry and win their favor. It balanced a fine scale of political power and public support. Such a functionally complex structure was a testament to the power and stability of Roman social order and a proliferation of the propagandistic political motives of an ambitious emperor. The saga of the Colosseum—from its origins, its height, and through its eventual decline and collapse—paints a vivid insight into the culture, society, and history of the ancient Roman Empire.

Nero Who? Long Live Vespasian!

Discussion on the origins of the Flavian amphitheater, later known as the Colosseum, mandates the accounting of the Flavian dynasty’s ascension after the death of the emperor Nero followed by eighteen months of civil unrest. With victory finally bestowed on Titus Flavius Vespasianus, or Vespasian, he ushered in an era of peace. Despite Rome embracing a return to normalcy, Vespasian knew he must solidify his imperial position to prevent a coup d’état like the one that overthrew Nero. In one brilliantly charged political move, Vespasian erected the Colosseum to embody his new imperial dynasty and to appease the masses. In one ingenious stroke, Vespasian eradicated memories of the self-serving and hated emperor Nero by returning land to the Roman populace with a gift of a monument to public entertainment. Thus, Vespasian shrewdly chose the site of the former Golden House, Nero’s extravagant palatial complex, as the location for his new amphitheater. Henceforth, the Flavian amphitheater would be a colossal jewel of Rome as well as a public venue promoting imperial benevolence and magnificence rather than a private imperial luxury for a despot. At the same time, the Colosseum was a dramatic gesture of goodwill and generosity to the Roman public, an unparalleled adornment worthy of the grandeur and authority of the capital of a vast Mediterranean empire. This public pleasure palace, rising from spoils of successful Roman military campaigns, belonged not only the aristocrats and royals, but to the Roman citizenry at large.

Duality of Function of the Majestic “Eighth Wonder”

An emblem of a new political and social beginning, the Colosseum seamlessly harmonized its dual role, fulfilling its utilitarian purpose as an entertainment facility while also serving as a political theater cementing the imperial power-base. The Flavian amphitheater housed riveted audiences with dazzling spectacles calculated to impress and glorify its patron, whose presence lent additional excitement and awe to the occasion. An inescapable excitement of all senses encouraged the crowd to bask in intoxicating collective reactions to events unfolding on center stage. The inspiring structure and embellishments surrounded a rapt audience, brimming with delight and anticipation. The technical refinement and exorbitant expense spent on these ceremonies continually flattered and impressed the spectators. Enchanting melodies serenaded one’s ears; striking imagery mesmerized one’s eyes; and the immense system of awnings, the velarium, drifted the spectators to a deep aura of fantasy. How can the Romans stray from or even contemplate opposing the mighty yet generous emperor when he pampers them so? Such a sentiment rightly echoes the mindset of the Roman emperor in commissioning the spectacles in the Colosseum. He alone stood sober and in control amongst a people succumbed to a drunken stupor, heralding the great virtues of their ruler. The more successful and popular the entertainment, the more committed the allegiance of the Roman populace. The utilitarian quality of this amphitheater thus heightened its symbolic political function to manifest strong national fervor and loyalty to a new dynasty. The emperor, aristocrats, and commoners all seated and entertained in the same space inspired solidarity between the strata of social status, which helped to mold a national identity. Consequently, to begin understanding such a cleverly disguised form of propaganda of social and political appeasement, one has to examine the architectural intricacies of the Colosseum.

An Architect’s Exploration of Theater Technicalities

The magnificence of the enormous elliptical Colosseum abounds even in its modern ruined state. The entire building was built on a massive network of stable travertine piers to carry its tremendous weight. Seven vaulted concentric rings support the cavea, audience seating, and each contains eighty radial piers forming the framework of the edifice. The grand façade rose splendidly in three superimposed tiers of gradation arcades cumulating in a wall-like attic with small square windows.

The entire structure was crowned by a series of wood masts functioning to secure the velarium, a protection from the blazing sun or torrential rain. The tiers of arcades were adorned by applied Classical orders of engaged columns that followed a logical sequence: Tuscan on the lowest level, Ionic on the second level, Corinthian on the third level, and Corinthian plasters on the lofty attic. A rhythmically procession of distinct columns at each level and the divided seating in the cavea reflect the Roman’s preoccupation with imposing order, especially social order The rigid hierarchies of Roman society were accordingly reinforced within and without the confines of the amphitheater. Not solely a massive structure, the Colosseum was a political statement that declared the Flavian emperors’ commitment to the Roman social order.

The innovative design of the cavea reveals the rigid segregation, through seating arrangements, of social class within the Roman society. A firm and effective buttressing system, created through tiers of interlocking radial walls and concentric rings, supported the cavea and provided access to the arena stage and seating. The cavea was divided into five horizontal blocks: podium, ima cavea, media cavea, summa cavea, and the summum maenianum in ligneis. The social strata are thus physically separated. The different social divisions included the emperor and senators, the order of knights, the Roman citizens, the general male population (urban poor, foreigners, freed slaves, and slaves), and lastly women presumed “respectable” wives and daughters of Roman citizens (delegated to the shielded wooden seating beneath the colonnade of the attic gallery).

The fantastical labyrinthine web of radial passageways circling around the amphitheater facilitated movement and lent support to the architecture. The honeycomb structure of successively diminishing levels of radial passages and arches supported the cavea and also served as a means of circulation. The passageway beneath the seats permitted large groups of people to enter and leave the theater simultaneously.

Finally, one can progress to the centerpiece below ground, consisting of an area larger than the arena. The original wooden arena floor and metal barrier that once protected audiences are now gone, exposing a nightmarish maze of subterranean tunnels, passageways, and chambers meant for gladiators, beasts, staff, and machinery. The ends of the major axes had storerooms and an underground corridor leading to gladiatorial training camps. It does not take a skilled archeologist to reveal the conditions of packed sweating laborers toiling underneath the pounding of contests and hunts above. Although essential to maintain the game’s livelihood, it was a putrid, deafening, arduous, and demeaning line of work.

Let the Games Begin!

The official inaugural games of the Colosseum under the new emperor Titus in AD 80 opened with battles, beast hunts, and bloodshed that were rumored to have lasted a hundred days. The mortality rates at this bloodbath extravaganza are difficult to estimate. No reliable concrete figures for gladiator deaths exist, but animal slaughters is said to range from 5000 each day to 9000 in total. However, immense displays lasting countless days, such as the opening ceremony, were rare—albeit extensively glorified in history. Such spectacles often celebrated special anniversaries: the emperor’s birthday, a victorious military conquest, or the commemoration of a great predecessor. Reportedly, Trajan offered the biggest bloodbath ever recorded in the Colosseum, lasting 123 days with 11,000 animals slaughtered and 10,000 gladiators forced into combat. However, many performances at the Colosseum were not such bloody and deadly affairs as those sponsored by the emperors. Roman aristocrats, attempting to enhance their image, poured money into hosting public shows in the Colosseum. To prevent potential adversaries from diverting public favor and support with extravagant performances, emperors devised a limited repertoire of gladiators and beasts employable by the aristocrats. The shows were naturally subpar, even amateurish, compared to an imperial spectacle.

The gladiatorial combats were brutal and merciless. They usually fought in pairs, one to one, with umpires and trainers for supervision, stretcher bearers to carry off the wounded or dead, and a blacksmith and forge for on-site repairs. The victors were generously rewarded with fame and splendid gifts from the game’s sponsor, which eventually led to an honorable discharge. However, a defeated or wounded gladiator was at the mercy of a crazed crowd. They roared for him to be killed or spared, indicating their favor or derision with their thumbs, but the sponsor ultimately decided the man’s fate.

Gladiators were symbols of moral degradation in Roman society and considered the lowest of all classes in Roman literature. These marginal outsiders of society consisted of war captives, the poor and wretched, slaves, and men condemned for heinous crimes. A short life of danger, fear, and pain awaited most gladiators—although a lucky few gained fame and eventual freedom. Regardless of whether active military combat was engaged or not, the insatiable lust for war was replayed in the arena where military prowess found expression from imagination to reality through all the carnage.

The infatuation of witnessing spectacles involving animal hunts and slaughter resulted in a higher number of captive animal deaths than those of gladiator deaths. Slaying the exotic beasts vividly showcased Roman dominance over the worlds of both nature and man. The animals brought to the Colosseum ranged from bulls and bears to elephants, giraffes, hippopotamuses, and panthers. The animals were not only killed for sport, but also used to kill criminals and prisoners that are part of the arena’s shows. The popular image of sadistic excess was thus a product of a belligerent culture and a love for bloody spectacles.

Subliminal Intentions of the Principate

The political and social nature of the Colosseum was touched upon earlier as the perfect setting for the emperor to connect to his people. The structure was cleverly constructed and enclosed a world of its own, uniting elites and commoners to enjoy the shows. It was a magnificent site for the emperor to demonstrate his power and rally his people behind his banner of supremacy and generosity. Of course, the Roman people had their share of fond fantasies of exercising their collective influence in front of the emperor through rhythmical chants of “let live” or “let die” with regards to a defeated gladiator. To be heard was a form of accessibility for the Roman people to their state’s decisions. However, such beliefs in the power of chants within the Colosseum were mostly delusions of the public having some power over royal decisions.

The Colosseum was so much more than just a public entertainment facility. It was a political theater where the emperor gauged his popularity and support through the cheers of an enthusiastic mob seduced by violence, sporadic gifts from the emperor, and a thrilling ambiance. A grateful and obedient crowd sometimes chanted for more or for the end of a battle, rendering a unified and powerful Roman people. It was a crucial part of political life for the Romans to see and been seen in the Colosseum, and the emperor understood this well.

The Colosseum became one of the main devices used to judge the emperor’s quality and worth in ruling the vast Roman Empire. To win people’s loyalty, emperors lavishly showered audiences with presents or tokens, exchanged later for more valuable trinkets. They even offered lunch, or what is said to be the ancient equivalent of modern fast food, while onlookers enjoyed scenes from below. Anyone craving a cheeseburger, fries, and coke with a side of gory combat, complements of your highness?

Despite all his generosity, the emperor still risked being upstaged by the inferior gladiators, sometimes stars of the shows. Amid the scrutiny of Roman citizens, the emperor vied for popular attention against the performers. The Colosseum hence portrayed the emperor as the benefactor of lavish public entertainment, yet such an image was not easily won.

The Colosseum was not so much a demonstration of Roman solidarity as much as it was a subtle display of social and political fissures and conflicts. The perpetual antagonism between the senate and emperor is entrenched deep within Roman history. Yet, there they sat together on the same block, facing off as in a duel across from the Colosseum. The two conflicts—on stage of warrior versus beast, and off stage of emperor versus senate—were continually intertwined. Consequently, the Colosseum spotlighted the dramatic political disputes of the emperor and his opponents for the public to witness.

The Curtains Finally Fall

The Colosseum truly deserves its status as an ancient wonder. This expansive monumental enterprise commissioned under a new dynasty by Vespasian was a perfectly calculated political and social endeavor designed to manifest solidarity and forge a distinctly Roman identity. The games stimulated the senses of spectators, creating a state of fanaticism. Entranced by the arena’s deadly battles and flattered by the emperor’s generosity, the Roman people become docile puppets and the emperor their brilliant puppeteer. The more lavish the emperor’s spectacles, the more he garners public support and devotion. He bribes his people to secure his authority.

By grasping the history of the Colosseum, one begins to embark on a journey to fully understand the compelling legacy of an ancient civilization that continues to influence modern society. The massive architecture more than achieved its utilitarian purpose of entertainment. The innovative designs and sheer size of the structure showcased to the entire Mediterranean world the power, creativity, and unity of Rome. The purpose of the structure awakened visceral emotions within the Roman populace as they crushed their opponents on the battlefield and in the arena, so woe to those who opposed the mighty eternal city. Rome’s enemies may have been the next sacrificial victims of the Colosseum, where 50,000 Roman citizens would gather and cheer for their deaths.

The assembly of the emperor’s subjects in a common space encouraged communal spirit and local identity within the vastness of Rome. The emperor interacted and connected with his people during the procession of the games, serving as a binding element of the new Vespasian regime. How brilliant the emperor manipulated the Roman population so that they willingly consented to his rule. The Colosseum was a tool in an attempt to win popular loyalty and affection, but true power and support ultimately rested within the emperor as a competent, qualified ruler.

Modern Interpretations

The Colosseum continues to stand imposing and majestic, luring artists, visitors, students, and collectors from across the world. The notoriously mythical and sophisticatedly primitive ambience of this amphitheater nestled in the backdrop of ancient Roman architecture elicits feelings of intrigue, respect, and amazement. This building receives both ancient and modern audiences but for different purposes. Ancient crowds packed the cavea to witness morbid scenes of violence for entertainment, but modern tourists explore the structure for its historical significance.

A contradiction of feelings arises for modern visitors of the Colosseum. Most would naturally admire the grandeur and technical achievements of constructing such a monument. However, some may deplore the violence, cruelty, and bloodshed of the amphitheater’s spectacles. Are people epitomizing the greatness of the Colosseum as an ancient “eighth wonder” and simultaneously decrying its bloody purpose? How different was the Roman society from today’s? Are we entitled to make such judgments when modern day boxing matches demonstrate comparable degrees of violence? Modern cinemas host a vast selection of popular actions films with extreme scenes of violence that draw millions of audiences worldwide. Violence is everywhere: in movies, news, video games, and streets. By questioning the morality of the Roman’s reactions to the violence, people subconsciously question the nature of their humanity. Would I react similarly when confronted with such a form of entertainment? Nevertheless, the technical, social, and political accomplishments of the Colosseum never cease to amaze ancient and modern audiences, forever glorifying the ingenuity and might of the emperor and his empire.

Reflections

The Colosseum was the great arena that held gladiatorial combats and beast hunts. That basically describes the extent of my knowledge of this renowned structure prior to my research. Through my in-depth exploration into the history, architecture, social and political institutions behind the events in the amphitheater, I can now truly appreciate this masterpiece. The Colosseum used as a tool for social and political propaganda was especially intriguing. Never before did it occur to me that emperors erected and held events at such a monument to cement their power. The fact that no other amphitheater of comparable size was ever constructed before the Colosseum and that none gathered and contained such massive amounts of people amazed me. I begin to question its purpose. Through my curiosity, I enjoyed learning about how the emperors achieved their fame and popularity by sponsoring spectacular games. Not only are the political aspects interesting, the process of the games and the people involved are equally fascinating. To understand and appreciate the beauty of a monument one has to understand its achievements and purposes. This statement could not be more true in my admiration for the Colosseum.

Bibliography

Beacham, Richard C. Spectacle Entertainments of Early Imperial Rome. New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1999.

Beard, Mary, and Keith Hopkins. The Colosseum. United Kingdom: Butler and Tanner, 2005.

Bomgardner, David L. The Story of the Roman Amphitheatre. London [u.a.]: Routledge, 2000.

http://depts.washington.edu/arch350/Assets/Slides/Lecture25.gallery/index.htm

Welch, Katherine E. The Roman Amphitheatre: From Its Origins to the Colosseum. Cambridge [u.a.]: Cambridge Univ. Press, 2007.